All Saints and little devils (Drive Day 41 minus 14 years)

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As road trip veterans, we have a lot to learn. Like how to put the truck into four-wheel drive when the road into Todos Santos becomes a dirt path through washouts and landslides. I read aloud from the manual stashed in the glove compartment while Gary gets muddy. I am also the one who negotiates with a farmer to camp in a field I assume is his. I am also the one who pays a pack of adorable little boys to guard Wipeout while Gary and I hike into town for its famous market day.

Todos Santos, Guatemala: photo by Gary Geboy

But it is Gary who figures out why the little angels turn into devils when we return – pelting the camper with mud clots, poking sticks at Wipeout, stealing our steps and demanding more money. The change I showered them with hours earlier? All Mexican coins, useless even for candy in the land of Mam.

Traditional costume, called a “traje”

Follow this bonus-material blog and ride along on a one-year road trip that inspired the memoir The Drive: Searching for Lost Memories on the Pan American Highway. On sale now. Get yours through the buy-the-book links at the bottom of the landing page on my website or here or here. Like The Drive’s Facebook page and tweet back at me @writerteresa.

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