We arrive too late to find a human guard at the gates of the Tucume ruins. But two homeless, hungry hairless dogs make us feel more than welcome. More as in instantly heartsick: for them and for Wipeout. Nevertheless, they lead us through a break in the shrub fence where we can duck into the deserted ruins and to what looks like a giant termite mound. It’s actually one of the site’s 26 eroded pyramids basically carved out of a mountain, supported by beams and at one time plastered over with adobe. It’s spectacular and haunting all at once.
Follow this bonus-material blog and ride along on a one-year road trip that inspired the memoir The Drive: Searching for Lost Memories on the Pan American Highway. On sale now. Get yours through the buy-the-book links at the bottom of the landing page on my teresabrucebooks.com website or here or here. Planning a road trip? Buy the audiobook here. Like The Drive’s Facebook page and tweet back at me @writerteresa. Like travel anthologies? I’m in a brand new one called Alone Together: Tales of Sisterhood and Solitude in Latin America which you can get here.